Morris Dovey’s Simple Outfeed Table

 
I started by bolting a pair of L-brackets to the existing Incra rails. The brackets will support the outfeed table and allow alignment of the outfeed table with the saw table

I cut a 48" piece of 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1/8" aluminum angle and drilled both ends for the 3/8-16 x 3/4" carriage bolts that'll be used to attach the outfeed table to the L-brackets - and drilled four countersunk holes for the #8 x 3/4" flat head screws used to attach the angle to the bottom of the plywood outfeed table.

I used clamps to hold the angle in position so I could work with a measuring tape. I wanted the far edge of the outfeed table 49" behind the trailing edge of the sawblade, so that full size sheets of plywood (96") and MDF (97") won't tip toward the floor at the end of a "rip" cut. As this picture shows, my outfeed table will need to be 39" deep.
I marked the plywood 39" from one end on both ends of the cut line and...
I used a piece of 1/4" scrap plywood (I make one of these whenever I put a new blade on my circular saw) to offset my saw guide and clamp the guide in place. (I mark both ends of the cut line because I want to apply the offset at both ends.)
Here's my outfeed table top with the saw guide clamped in position and ready to cut.
I removed the offset block and made the cut with the circular saw. This little saw, by the way, has been a delight to work with. I never liked circular saws until I bought one of these back in the early 70's (This is the replacement for the stolen original.) This saw is both easy to control and powerful - though its capacity is limited.
I gave the plywood a quick sanding and attached the aluminum angle using four square drive #8 x 3/4" flat head wood screws.
Because I hadn't settled on a cabinet design, I decided to build a temporary leg assembly to support the outfeed table at the "far" end. A twelve foot piece of marginal (one of those "Why would I have bought junk like this?" pieces) 1 x 4 was cut to make the two legs and stretchers.
The leg assembly stretchers were prepared using a Kreg pocket hole jig and screwed together using eight square drive #7 x 1-1/4" washer head screws. I stood the legs up so you can see how simple they can be.
I slipped the carriage bolts into the open-ended slots on the L-brackets and stood the leg assembly under the far end of the outfeed table, then lined up the near edge of the outfeed table with the saw table using a straight edge; and tightened the nuts on the carriage bolts to secure the outfeed table.
Here's a view of the connection from the underside (pretty simple, huh?)
And here's a look at the whole works. I'm in the process of brushing on a couple of coats of spar varnish to protect the working surface - and when I have a cabinet design that I like, I'll replace the leg assembly with a roll-around cabinet. For now, though, what I have should serve my needs fairly well.
When the third coat of varnish dried, I couldn't resist taking this one last picture.

Copyright © 2004 Morris R Dovey

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